buddyfightfandomcom-20200223-history
User blog:FrozenStarProfXiX/User:FrozenStarProfXiX/Deck Building Theory
Deckbuilding is the most important aspect of this game to me. A terrible deck no matter the player can result in a loss against a decent player with an amazing deck. Even though Buddyfight has staples, the deckbuilding process is far more complicated than our sister community of VG. In BF deck building can have a lot of creative freedom and still be able to build viable decks. But the key word is build and now I want to share with you how I approach deck building. 'Staples' Staples are the cards you have to run. That’s a universal term that all card game players understand. In Buddyfight staple cards are often powerful or key monsters, or amazing utility spells. Spells like armor reuse or a monster like Inferno Armor Dragon are amazing in their respective decks. You will generally run these types of cards at 3-4 to increase your chances of drawing them. However in decks where one can draw a lot like Magic world or Legend world, you have more leeway to run smaller amounts of copies. However, many worlds/deck variants will have different staples and there are a lot of good staple cards that fill niche roles. I will explain niche later in this article. Having a nice balance of staple cards and your own personal choices can and will result in a decent deck that is absolutely viable. 'Deck Ratios' Building a consistent deck is of the utmost importance. You could run the strongest cards in the game but they mean nothing if you can’t draw them or your deck does not support them. Generally people run from anywhere 22 to 24 monsters. Some decks run a lot less depending on how well they draw or their overall focus. Understanding what your deck’s purpose is will better your ratio understanding. Spells can range from anywhere to 12-15 and sometimes even more than that but those are odd occurrence. Buddyfight has a [counter] mechanic that is key to mastering in order to properly defend oneself. Most decks run about 8 “shields” or other form of protection spells. Additionally most decks will have a minimum of 3 for a draw engine. This includes cards like Symbel Gard or Abyss Symphony. The amount of items and impacts you run is purely up to you and your preferred playstyle. Some decks run 0 impacts, others will run about 3-4. Items likewise, where some decks will run 2-3 or some can run 6-8. Decks like Danger world and Dragon world must run a lot more items because it’s key to their playstyle. However, Magic world may not need to run that many items. Lastly some decks may run more than the standard 50 card deck(excluding flag and buddy). It’s best not to trifle with more than 50 cards, but running 51 or 53 cards will not break your draw ratios that badly either. Deck’s that stall longer may have the option to run slighly more cards as well. 'Niche Cards and Sideboard' There are many card options out there so building a deck can be confusing. Certain effects sound really nice on paper to fill a certain niche role, but may be entirely useless in any other situation. It’s best to stay away from niche cards like Begone!! Or No Matter Where, Dragon Rule Supreme. While they have handy effects that can totally screw over an opponent's set up, they might not be all too useful in others. That leads us into the Sideboard. This handy system allows you to run upwards of ten extra cards not in your deck. You will typically find niche cards in here or more shields. Or cards that can directly counter another person’s style. Cards that can destroy items, or set spells or a card that directly counters an opponent's strategy. Picking the right cards and being knowledgeable of the “meta” will aide in what this is. 'Playstyle' Playstyle is generally affected and what influences your deck choice. However, some people may use a deck that conflicts with that playstyle which can cause the deck to be misused or not able to used to its fullest potential. However, you can balance this by running a small subset of cards that can pander to your preferred playstyle. For example. A deck hailing from Katana World is generally not all that aggressive and can play the waiting game all day long. But if you play more aggressively but use katana world, you can try adding monsters with higher critical or power, or cards that will deal faster damage. This would allow you to not distract from the overall purpose of the deck of waiting for the right moment to strike, but instead enable you to punish your opponent faster. 'Covering Weaknesses ' Similar to the above topic, all decks have weaknesses no matter how miniscule some may be. The natural reaction is to run all sorts of cards that cover up these weaknesses. For the most part this is true, but spreading yourself too thin will cause your deck to be mudded by inconsistencies. Once you have established what your decks purpose is, then you need to establish what its obvious weaknesses are. This can be supplemented in the sideboard or by running 2-3 copies of a card that can protect your formation/set up. The key is to not totally cover up your weaknesses but learn how to avoid instances where you would not be hindered by them. This concludes my deck theory in a general broad essence. Specific questions and criticism can be discussed in the below comments. I hoped this can help some people and if it doesn’t that’s alright. I have my way of doing things and I know what works for me. Learning to adopt small aspects of others ideas and learning from them is another way to better yourself as a deck builder and a buddyfighter. and remember.... Category:Blog posts